Moissanite vs lab diamond grillz: how to choose your stones
Once you've decided your set should have stones rather than plain metal, the next decision is which stone. Moissanite and lab-grown diamonds are the two options we set most often, and both look genuinely impressive — but they're not interchangeable. Here's how they actually compare, without the sales pitch.
Materials · Published · 7 min read
Sparkle: two different kinds of brilliance
Moissanite has a higher refractive index than diamond, which means it bends and scatters light more aggressively. Under club lighting or direct sun, a moissanite-set tooth throws noticeably more rainbow-coloured fire — flashes of colour rather than pure white light. Lab-grown diamonds are chemically and optically identical to natural diamond, so they produce the classic bright white sparkle most people associate with fine diamond jewellery, with less coloured flash.
Neither is objectively 'better' — it's a style decision. If you want maximum, attention-grabbing brilliance, moissanite tends to win. If you want the sparkle that reads as classic, refined diamond, lab-grown is the closer match.
Hardness and everyday durability
Diamond is the hardest natural material on the Mohs scale at 10. Moissanite sits close behind at 9.25, which is still extremely hard — harder than sapphire or ruby, and more than tough enough for a removable grillz set that isn't exposed to the constant daily wear a ring would face. In practice, both stones hold up well for years in a set that's taken out to eat and cleaned regularly.
Where it matters more is scratch resistance against other jewellery stored loosely in a bag or pocket. Keep your set in its case rather than loose with keys or coins, and either stone will stay in excellent condition regardless of which you chose.
How they're made, and what that means for price
Moissanite is lab-created from silicon carbide and was never mined — it's a distinct mineral, not a diamond substitute in the chemical sense. Lab-grown diamonds are, by contrast, real diamonds: identical carbon crystal structure to a mined stone, grown in a controlled lab environment rather than pulled from the ground. That lab process is why lab diamonds cost more than moissanite at a comparable size and clarity — more energy and time go into growing an actual diamond crystal than a silicon carbide one.
On silver, VVS moissanite is €150 per tooth versus €190 for a VVS lab diamond. On 9K gold, moissanite is €350 versus €450 for a VS lab diamond. We also set natural diamonds on request — a natural VS diamond on 9K gold is €650 per tooth, reflecting the cost of a mined stone rather than a lab-grown or synthetic one. Full pricing for every metal and stone combination is on the [prices page](/prices).
Which should you choose?
If budget matters and you want maximum sparkle for the money, moissanite is the practical choice — it's genuinely hard-wearing and visually loud in the best way for a statement grillz set. If you specifically want the optical signature of real diamond, or you're pairing your set with existing diamond jewellery and want the tones to match exactly, a lab-grown diamond is the better fit, with a natural stone as the option above that if it matters to you.
Either way, the setting technique and finish quality are identical — our goal is a stone that sits securely and catches light from every angle, whichever one you pick. Compare full looks on the [styles page](/styles) before booking your mould appointment.
Questions people ask
Does moissanite look fake next to a lab diamond?
No — most people can't tell the two apart at conversation distance. The main visible difference is that moissanite throws more coloured sparkle, while lab diamonds give a whiter, more classic brilliance.
Is moissanite as durable as diamond for grillz?
Yes for this use. At 9.25 on the Mohs hardness scale, moissanite easily withstands normal wear in a removable set that's taken out to eat and stored in its case.
Can I mix moissanite and lab diamonds in the same set?
Technically yes, though most clients choose one stone type per set so the sparkle reads consistently across every tooth.
Why is a natural diamond more expensive than a lab-grown one?
Natural diamonds are mined rather than grown, which carries a different cost structure. Lab-grown diamonds have the same chemical structure as natural stones but cost less to produce.
Talk to us about your set
Tell us the teeth, the metal and your dates. We'll come back with a real quote and a realistic timeline.
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